Comparison of cosmetic and dermatological properties of extract and ferment of sea buckthorn fruit obtained by fermentation using kombucha tea fungus
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.12775/HERB.2023.005Keywords
Hippophae rhamnoides L., kombucha, cosmetic properties, ferments, plant extractsAbstract
Kombucha is a health-promoting beverage produced by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter and yeast of the genus Saccharomyces along with glucuronic acid. The study compared the cosmetic and dermatological properties of sea buckthorn (Hippophae Rhamnoides L.) fruit extract and its ferment obtained through a fermentation process using a tea fungus. For this purpose, the fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition using the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS assays. Cytotoxicity was also determined by conducting Alamar Blue and Neutral Red assays assessing cell viability and metabolism using skin cell lines: fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Potential anti-aging properties were
determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases: collagenase and elastase. In addition, application tests have been carried out showing positive effects of the extracts and ferments on TEWL and skin hydration. The results indicate that both sea buckthorn fruit extract and ferment obtained with kombucha can be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.
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